1845 day dress

  Yesterday I got this project out and dusted it off. It got thrown over for another project, the 1912 Shawl Collar dress. Which at the time was all consuming and driving me mad.

Dress on right.

 So I did a little revising yesterday deciding that the idea of using the KCI gown as inspiration and trying the smocking was all well and good. But! The other style of dress in the pattern was far more simple and that would suit my first foray into this era much better.

That being said I wasn't exactly sure that I cared for the "Reveres" these being the extra bit of fabric that run from the shoulder to the bottom of the front side seam.

Please do excuse the photos I just didn't feel like putting on a corset that day.

So here is what I have thus far. I decided that I would add the optional sleeve jockey instead of the reveres. I personally am not in love with this dress yet. Yes I know it's just a plain white muslin but the sleeve jockeys are throwing me off. 

I'm leaning toward a style like this dress. For a spring and summer look. The entire point of this is to be ready to make another for this winter to wear to Dickens Festival.

I like the black and grey dress in the first plate and the green dress with black inverted chevrons in the second plate. Today I'm off the purchase fabric. Who knows what I'll bring home.

Titanic Exhibit Outing

 I know it's way past being important but I figured I'd throw this out there anyway.I can't even describe how hectic getting ready for this day was. Both my Mom's and my own dress were completed at around 3:00 am the day of the event. And then we got up at 7:00 and drove to San Diego about 45 min from my house.

 But overall if turned out to be fantastic. My very first event where I was wearing my own work. Also my first costumed event outside of a Ren Faire.

A great day overall.

1912 Dress: Is that light I see?

I'm moving along and getting things done. I've gotten my second wind after some prodding from my husband. Here is what I have so far.

I started out thinking that I wouldn't add a collar and would instead use some lace to finish off the edge. After showing my mom the two options she pointed out that it just wasn't going to cut it.

 So I started out by cutting out a collar piece for the smallest size in the pattern. I pinned it to the dress and then took a pencil and drew what I wanted it to look like thus creating the collar above. It turned out alright.

Today I took apart the sleeve at the bottom of the arm hole and trimmed the width down by 1/4 of an inch. While I was at it I removed the cuff and replaced it with the contrasting fabric. Originally I'd chosen to not do that but after I put it together it looked so monochromatic. I decided that I had to change it.

I also pinned on a few buttons to get an idea of that it will look like once I get those on as well. I'm super excited about the buttons and I don't know why.  ;)

I'm sad to say I wasn't able to afford a pair of  of the American Duchess Astoria shoes. But my Mom found a descent pair that were on sale when we bought them for only $19.99. Go Mom!

To add to things I bought some crochet gloves. I totally ditched the idea of making gloves after about the 4th pair that turned out looking like poo. The pearls and gold broach is a hand me down as well as the necklace. I haven't yet made a final decision on jewelery. And the hat situation is up in the air.

1912 Shawl Collar Dress.....minus the collar....

I took the advice offered to me by Val from Time Traveling in Costume and purchased the pattern from Hint of History. It is as she noted a fairly simple design. However I for some ungodly reason left my brain somewhere the day I started sewing my practice dress. I must have read the directions a dozen times and spent a good bit staring either off into space or at the page uncomprehendingly. My first try just didn't go very well. Now that I've figured it out here is the mock up.

  I am having a small issue with the skirt being wide enough to accommodate my rather ample *blush* bottom. So unsure how to proceed I'm just toying with the idea of adding maybe 1 - 3 inches to all the skirt parts for a better flow.....for lack of a better word.

 My mom and I took a trip to Michael Le Vine in the LA gatmet district a few weeks back and I found this stripped cotton and I picked up the sheer at JoAnn fabrics. I'm actually pretty nervous about working with a stripe. It's new territory and I don't have immediate access to more fabric if I make a mistake. 

I did notice today while ironing my main fabric that there is a large section with what appears to be rust spots. They are small and I think that if I use it for the back of the skirt it might not be too noticeable. Especially if I don't point it out to anyone.

I was sewing the other day with Downton Abby on in the background and saw this dress. Super similar to the one that I'm working on. If I end up adding more to the back skirt piece I'd be able to give it a pleat or two I think. As for the neckline of my dress I still need to figure out a finish for it since I'll be omitting the collar. The deadline is approaching and I'm feeling lazy. A bad combination.

1910 Corset: Complete

 Here is my 1910 corset all put together and working out nicely. It does give a much better shape on me than it does on the dress form however. I'm pretty darn pleased with it.About the only part I really had any difficulty with was getting it enlarged. But in the end that turned out just fine as well.

If I try this again I'll see about taking out a few inches in the bottom to get the lacing gap even.

It isn't perfect but I don't attempt perfection and therefore I'm rarely disappointed. The directions and pattern are fantastic. I really owe my success to the detailed instructions.

Now that I have this done and out of the way I can finally move on to starting my 1912 dress.

1910 Corset: Getting to work

I visited Kinkos again yesterday and I finally got the pattern enlarged to very nearly the exact size I needed. I think all the pieces were within 1/2 an inch to 1 inch to the actual size. So I got the pattern home retraced them to keep the master copy safe and voila!

Here they are after being retraced and modified to fit my size.

 So here it is in fabric. Very straightforward and easy to sew together. I imagine the part that will take the longest will be sewing the boning channels.

 I'm a little worried that the length may be slightly off. Too long in the back and too short in the front. Also I think I might have accidentally added too much width to the pattern.So I'm going to look at my pieces and re-size them if needed. I'm waiting on my busk from Vogue Fabrics and after than I'll start the hard work.

1910's Corset

Alright I know it's another corset but I just can seem to get past thinking that I absolutely need the correct corset for every era. I'm obsessed really.....

 Mine obviously wont be nearly as ornate as this. But If I can get close to the shape I'll be happy as a clam. I found the Festive Attye article written by Jennifer Thompson, so I now have detailed instructions and a pattern all for free. Which is really helping my pocket book.

I think I may have also gotten around all the work of enlarging patterns by hand. I took the pattern over to FedEx Kinkos and they enlarged it for me on this machine that prints it out on this enormous piece of paper. Instant pattern really. I have to go back today to get the size exactly right. I'd rather spend a few bucks and save my brain from being fried.

Kensington Pre-Sale

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Hat Overload

I hit up Target the other day in search of a large straw hat to use with my 1912 costume and I came across some super fun finds in the accessories department.

Target has at least four different varieties of boaters.

I took this particular one home with me and decided to change it from Granny going to church, to a 1912 hat.

 I sewed on two layers of tulle over the crown and two more around the crown, I then glued on the flowers. I would love to pair this with a gibson girl blouse and a dark skirt for a lower class impression.

Here is my inspiration for this hat. These two are my favorite characters from Downton Abby.

Target also has a wide selection of cloche hats.

Unfortunately I forgot to take a before pic of this hat but it was very simply decorated with a cream grosgrain ribbon. I think one may be my favorite.

The hat on Edith (right) was my inspiration. It's just too bad I haven't been able to find a hat with a similar shape. Then it would have been perfect. Unfortunately this hat was worn in a scene where the start of WWI was announced. Making it too late to wear to a 1912 event.

Making History: Historical Gloves B5370

To add to my repertoire I'm attempting a pair of gloves to wear to the upcoming Titanic Exhibit. I'll be using B5370 which seems to be fairly straight forward.

I decided to use view F first as a jumping off point. I wont be copying the details exactly but using the pattern as a guideline.

(Right) back

(Right) palm

 Here is the first go I had at it. I did hand sew them because I just found it entirely too difficult to sew the gussets in on the machine. I'd really prefer to use the machine but I'll do whatever is best.
    

(Left) back

(Left) palm

 My second try went a little better but instead of my seams being too loose I made them too tight. And obviously I need to refine them if I ever want to wear the final product in public.

I chose a micro suede in a color called papyrus. It's nice and soft and not too stretchy. I know it's not correct but I really don't think I'm up to the challenge of sewing leather gloves.

American 1900-1925

American 1900-1930

 

French 1900-1925

French 1900-1929

 I trolled around on the MET website last night and found these gloves in their collection. So round two I'm going to use a fabric a little more sturdy and maybe I'll try using the machine again.